Grab a Coffee and Catch Up!

It's been awhile since we had a good internet connection - probably the only downside to being in the mountains - so this post will be a little long...

On Wednesday morning we woke up to cloudy skies – a sign my vacation curse was taking hold.  Tracy insisted her good vacation karma would win out.  Regardless, after breakfast we checked out of Ciasa Blancia, but left any luggage we wouldn’t need to climb with the owner, Paolo.  We hopped a bus to Passo Gardena and got off at the top of another long windy road.  LOTS of people there, (I think they had either just checked out or gotten off a bus), and most of them were senior citizens, maybe on some tour.  It was cool we could check in early at Hotel Frara, dump off some other stuff, then head out to our first via ferrata.

Rated 2A, the cables began at the top of a steep climb. 

I fumbled with my harness and finally asked for some help.  Gear check, ready to go!  Up goes Tracy, then Joe.  It looked really intimidating to me and I was definitely nervous.  I clipped into the cable, and started climbing, with Ed behind me.  It was a little cumbersome at first, clipping and unclipping at each piton where the cables are connected, but after a while, it started become, well, I was going to say “natural” but that doesn’t really fit the bill.  “A little easier” should suffice.

The sun was in and out, but it turned out to be a beautiful day for this climb.  There were a couple of places that were a little challenging, but nothing like our via ferrata the next day (more on that later).  We got to the top of our little mountain in an hour, downclimbed halfway, then had some snacks.  The night before I had asked everyone what they thought one of the most beautiful places they had been to was.  Now, sitting on a hillside after our climb, staring out at rugged mountains, clouds hovering over some of the tops, with the sun shining on some green hillsides, Tracy said “I need to add Northern Italy to that list”. 

It’s still early enough in the day to do something after we got back down.  What should we do now?  Why, have some beers on the terrace of course!  Get some strudel!  Because this area used to belong to Austria before World War II, there is still a huge German influence here, with the food, beer, and the language.  We’re all starting to rely more and more on Joe’s command of the German language, not something he expected would happen in Northern Italy!

After 1st ferrata drinks

The next morning, Thursday, we checked out and started our hike right from the hotel. 

666, the sign of a devilish route

On the trail 666 we headed into the clouds, with mist dripping on us.  We had the trail to ourselves as we walked up and down for an hour to get to the ferrata trailhead.  This one was rated 3B – harder and longer than the one we did yesterday and we were all psyched to try this out.

Joe topping out

Clip in, start climbing, and take each section as it comes, that was my approach.  Some of the areas were a little challenging, especially with the wet rock which made my boots slip, but the first section wasn’t too bad.  As we got higher things started to get a little more challenging.  I tried to climb without using the cable as an aid, but there were times I literally had to haul myself up using just the cable.  More people got on the route now so we no longer had it to ourselves.  I tried to get some video but it just got too difficult to NOT focus on what I was doing.

Tracy scaling the wall

There should have been a bailout section 1/3 of the way up in case we wanted to get off and hike the rest of the way.  I don’t have very good upper body strength and I was definitely getting tired.  Some of the climbing was straight up, hanging onto a slippery metal ladder.  Some of the climbing was hard because my boots couldn’t find purchase, but at least the angle wasn’t severe.  I was seriously thinking of bailing out when it came.  The bailout didn’t happen, though, until we were almost at the top, so we all said “nahhh, let’s just finish this.”

Me in the fuschia, Ed's behind me

Well.  Shit got serious then.  The degree of climbing increased to 90 degrees, very small points to put my hiking boots and weight on.  I said slippery, right?  My gloves are now soaked because the cable has been wet this whole time.  Now when I try to muscle my way up by grabbing the cable with both hands, I’m sliding a little, at the same time trying to clip and unclip my carabiners, which, by the way, are starting to stick and not clipping in very easily.  Oh, did I mention that via ferratas are one-way.  There’s no turning around.  Once you get on it, you are COMMITTED to it, and with a line of people behind you, there’s nowhere to go except continue the route. 

Joe finishing a tough section

I'm halfway to the top

This section was TOUGH and twice I felt real fear.  Once, I couldn’t clip myself into the next safety section because I was hanging on with both hands, my feet scrambling for purchase, arms already exhausted from the last 2 hours of climbing.  Ahhhhh!!!!   So Tracy had to reach down and get it for me.  I really thought I was going to fall.  After that, I blocked everything and everyone out, and my inner trainer came out.  I just started talking to myself “ok, you got this, just focus on this section.  See, there you go, you’re doing it.  Take your time, and good, you got it.  Rest, deep breaths, okay, next section.  Almost there”.    I got myself to a suspension bridge over a narrow chasm that was thousands of feet up – really cool!!  I saw more climbing ahead of me, but I sensed I was over the hardest sections.    A few more sections up and boom!  At the top!  I was greeted by 4 climbers who yelled “BRAVO!!” 

One by one, Tracy, Joe, and Ed finished.  Amazing!!  A short hike to the hut at the top where lots of other climbers were celebrating, some hot chocolate, then the long, long, long hike down, back to Corvara. 

Joe, Ed, Tracy, Joanne

 A quick stop at the store for some fruit, then a gondola ride and chairlift ride to our next hut – Kostner Mountain hut.  Exhausted from our day, we enjoyed hot showers, a hot meal of vegetable soup, a (really salty) salad, and beautifully cooked beef tips with wine.  Ed falling asleep while we told stories was a hint – get thee to bed!

Kostner Hut

So today, Friday, I needed to take a day off.  My legs are getting pretty banged up and the bruises are starting to look like I got into a fight.  Ed and Tracy wanted to climb another 3B route on the top of this mountain, Joe wanted to check it out.  I thought I’d go with them and video, then head down the mountain into town and just relax, get some cappuccino, and get online (if possible).  The weather wasn't that great, and it turns out Joe wasn’t really into climbing today (at least that's what he said in the morning)  and Tracy was having a hard time on the very first pitch.  Ed went up by himself (he was very fast), and I tried to video some of his ascent.  I’m not super happy with my video camera because it doesn’t have a view finder, so I rely on the screen which, with glare, prevents me from seeing what I want to video whenever I’m outside.  Yeah.  Not good, since I do most of videos outside on these trips I go on.  ANYways, don’t think my video came out very well of Ed. 

Watching him climb, 2 people came by and told us about a 2B route not far from here.  Huh.  Let’s go over and check it out.  Joe and Tracy ended up doing it, and I videoed them.  I thought I could do it, but I just wasn’t mentally into it today.  After filming them for sometime, I hiked for awhile back to the chairlift, met Ed and told him what the other 2 were doing.  He went up and I continued down into town.

After a cappuccino and some French fries, catching up on some news (Joan Rivers died!  That sucks!), I picked up our luggage we had left with Paolo, met with everyone as they finished their climbs, and we all headed to our next stop – A.DiBona refugio.

Again sharing a room, we had bunk beds this time!  Most of us slept well after a 3 course delicious meal at A. DiBona refugio.  Because we’re staying here 2 nights, we were able to have lighter packs – so nice!  Joe and I are commenting that we’re having a lot of ham and cheese here like we did in Argentina, but of course, the ham and cheese here is of a much higher quality and variety.  

On Saturday, after breakfast (of ham and cheese – we had to request eggs since it’s not a normal breakfast here), we hiked down a VERY slippery and muddy trail to the road to pick up a bus.  I thought I had made it down unscathed until almost at the very bottom I stepped into a FOOT DEEP MUD puddle!  UGH!!!   I couldn’t even wrench my boot out on the first try!  I could feel it seeping INTO my boot and socks.  This sucks.  Not a good way to start a rock climb.

I’m not feeling that great today, and with my muddy boot, I really want to turn around.  Ok, suck it up Joanne, just keep moving forward.  So, I became one with the mud, and pushed on.  Mud is my friend.  It feels great.  Animals love it, and hey Pigpen likes it!  Ok, whatever.

We got off the bus, hiked 30 minutes practically straight up, and queued in line (yes, there was a LINE) for the via ferrata.  This was also a 3B, and the beginning of this was difficult.  I thought “shit, I hope the whole thing isn’t like this”.  After we topped out at the first hard part, I saw a trail down and thought “maybe I should bail”.  Ugh, I really didn’t want to wus out.  So onward!

I actually liked this climb, although I had REALLY low energy today.  I was having a tough time, and my brain was telling me it wasn’t that bad, but still.  We climbed for a couple of hours, and I started getting shaky and light headed.  Not good.  Drink water.  Climb.  Unclip, clip in.  Climb.  Drink a little more water.  No time to video.  Slam my already badly bruised knee.  Swear.  Climb.  Unclip, clip in.  Slam my knee AGAIN.  Scream, swear, and moan (according to the German climber).  Climb some more.

Finally we get to a point where I think we’re done, and I realize we still have at least another 200 meters to go.  Crap!!  Is there a way down from here?  Yes, fine, I’m taking that.  I’m totally spent, just can’t make it the rest of the way.  I feel bad, because Tracy ends up coming with me (no one feels comfortable letting me go alone) and she can’t summit.  But I just. Can’t. Do it.  Ed and Joe go on, and Tracy and I pick our way down to the trail that leads back.

The weather was the nicest it’s been in days, and here I am not finishing the climb.  But I did MOST of it, and have to be happy with that.

Antipasto Happy Hour on DiBona terrace

Happy hour on the terrace at DiBona with a gorgeous view, wine, beer, antipasto (lots of different “hams” and cheese) and tons of laughter!

Okay, so now we're onto today, Sunday.  Do you need a bathroom break yet?  Alright I'll wait..................Ok, so today is our last day to do a via ferrata.  It rained last night but the sun is out and the view from our terrace at the hut is just GORGEOUS.  Woohoo!  

Morning view from DiBona terrace

Morning view in different direction

But something is bothering me and not sure what, but I'm having doubts about doing this ferrata.  I forge on anyways.  We all pack up, drop the car off at our new hotel in Cortina, Hotel Myriam, then catch a bus to the trailhead.  45 minutes of hiking pretty much straight up (40 degree angle) and my calves are killing me, my toes are cramping, and I am losing the battle to have a positive attitude on this.  But my brain is screaming "this will be so fun!  it's the last one - c'mon!"  So I keep going.  But there's another voice saying "are you kidding?  You have been beat up this past week.  No harm in passing".  

We get to the top, take a rest, then start heading towards the approach.  Here we're starting to climb some rocks and I BARELY touched my bruised knee and almost swore in pain.  That's it.  I'm outta here. Done, done done.  I hope Tracy and Ed understood, and Joe was cool about coming down with me.  I certainly felt wimpish, but then again, I'm just really sore and tired.  So the other 2 continued on.

Joe and I made it down to the foot of the mountain and walked this really pretty bike path back to our hotel.  Shower, put on CLEAN CLOTHES, and connect to everyone.  After the rain came through, I was so glad I bagged out on this climb, but just heard from Tracy that they summitted - yay!!